In late September, 2005, the opportunity arose to accompany a research trip to the north of Namibia to see a
tribe known as the Himba. The researcher, Catherine Mulvena, was studying the connection between the our
perception of sound and colour, and tests on people who had not heard much or any western music as
needed. I helped create the sounds for the tests, and then was offered the opportunity to come along after
another person dropped out. An opportunity not to be missed, even if it meant missing the premiere of my
piece "Times Three" at the Tate Modern.
After flying into the capital of Windhoek, we drove 12.5 hours to the northern town of Opuwo. Here we met our
guide, Kemu Jakurama (www.kaokoinformationcenter.com), picked up our supplies and then drove about 4
hours out of Opuwo on dirt roads and non-roads towards the remote Himbas. It is a desert, so finding a little bit
of water like this was surprising:
Namibia is a country twice the size of the UK but with a population of only 2 million. It is amazing to drive
for hours without seeing anyone, and then to find one or two people walking on the side of the road or
out in the desert, miles and miles from anything.
This is the entrance of the of one the 1st compounds we stopped at. This Himba settlement is known as
Okau. After finding out where the chief was, we met him and offered him gifts of tobacco and sugar. He
granted us permission to camp and do the tests, and suggested a place in the dry riverbed to set up camp
for the night. I would guess the chief was between 55-65. He felt like a chief, and his hand shake was
solid, slow, and chief like.
Namibia
Himba pictures and recordings